Because Novak has always maximized our domestic supply and internal manufacturing paradigm, we are seeing little interruption due to the Co-Vi situation. However, permit a day or two extra for fulfillment and be aware that we may contact you with questions or options on items where our suppliers may be having difficulties. The Buick V6 started its production life in the Buick Special. It was a 90 degree engine and its first displacement was CID. It was dubbed the "Fireball". Buick had worked with the innovative aluminum block V8 later to be an Olds, then ultimately a Rover enginebut it was difficult to build and had its quirks.
Buick set its sights on the iron block Fireball, derived from the V8. However, it did not share engine block bolt patterns or engine mount bolt patterns. Because the V6 was essentially a shortened V8, the engine had a unique odd-fire design - so called because of the unevenly spaced at etc. This is the source of the characteristic and well-liked rumble.
The V6's performance was pretty impressive. However, Buicks were heavy cars and the horespower wars were on. Jeep used a heavier flywheel for increased torque and to dampen the vibrations stemming from the odd-fire design. These were great years for the CJ's. Power was ample at HP and ft. The V6 Buick was then reintroduced by GM in with a.
This newer version was still an odd-fire engine but had the Delco HEI electronic distributor. In mid the was converted to "even-fire" degree spaced firing impulses by changing the crankshaft, camshaft, distributor and presumably for increased volumetric efficiency the cylinder heads and intake manifold.
As such, interchange of these parts with earlier V6's ranges from problematic to impossible. In mid the got a different crankshaft, camshaft, distributor and flywheel, which made it an "even-fire" engine. This became the and similar V6, the latter having a longer stroke. Throttle-body injection was introduced in on some of these engines and multi-port injection was introduced in GM made a variation of the conventional RWD 3. These versions have the engine mounts in different locations and are not easily used for conversion engines into Jeeps.
Worth mentioning for the sake of differentiation is the 60 Degree GMintroduced in The 3. They do, however, share the 60 degree engines' Chevy 2.On Sale. Garage Sale. Tell us what vehicle you drive so we can help you find exactly what you're looking for.
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Distributor and Magneto. Wet Sump Oil System.How to Replace a Leaking Oil Pan Gasket in Your Car
Timing Components. Wiring Harness and Components. Data Acquisition. Electronic Fuel Injection. Part Ships Free. Quick View. Part K Part ACC. Part SK Part UPThe oil is the life blood of your engine. Once you start modifying your car and making more HP the bearing loads and rpm increase.
Up until now there was no way to match the increased requirements on your oiling system with the increase in engine performance. Oil capacity and pressure are the two most important aspects in engine durability. Up until now there were no alternatives to the stock oil capacity. External Drain Bung The stock pan has the oil drain bung on the inside of the pan.
We have changed this and mount the bung on the outside of the pan. This will allow all of the oil and contaminants to drain out of the pan when changing the oil.
You will be forewarned of any hint of problems in the motor just by visually checking the oil during an oil change. Billet Aluminum Pickup Tube Extension This will place the pickup precisely where you need it to take advantage of the deeper sump without the aggravating chore of splicing, indexing and welding the pickup tube. This simply bolts on with nothing more to do.
Two lengths are available depending on weather or not the motor is equipped with an engine girdle. Stiffening Flange The stock pan has a stiffening Bracket around the mounting flange.
This is a great idea and we incorporated this feature with our pans as well. This will eliminate flange distortion when tightening the bolts securing the pan. Oil Baffle Plate The stock pan has a oil baffle plate inside the pan that does a great job of keeping the oil where it needs to be around the pickup without restricting oil drainage to the sump. Since the stock system works so good we have also incorporated this plate in our pans.
Gold Zink Plating This creates a durable long lasting rust resistant finish inside and out. Really makes the pans look nice! This allows for the engine to be placed in the chassis without any interference or problems.
The Buick 90 Degree V6 Engine
Because of these bosses, the pan gaskets had to have holes to accommodate them. This made the gaskets highly prone to oil leaks. This is not the most ideal surface to try and seal to. Because of the advancements in gasket materials recently this feature is no longer desirable. We have designed our pans to not have these bosses.
We have also designed an industrial grade gasket without the crush holes. This high quality gasket is designed specifically to work with our pans and our engine girdles. Oil leaks are no longer an issue. This warranty does not cover any failure due to abuse, accident, or neglect.Starting the tear down. This Jeep spent most of its driving life on a tow bar being towed to NY for the hunting season.
The engine has very low actual miles on it. I stamped all parts with a metal stamp so if I reuse I know where they go but I am leaning towards a master rebuild kit which includes new pistons. This is the only damage I found, It's on the cam where the fuel pump rides on it. Not sure why this happened but I am sure this is the "slapping" sound I remember hearing last time I heard it run.
I plan on having the heads done in a machine shop, also getting the block cleaned and checked and new cam bearings installed. The rest I want to do. John, this engine is in remarkably good condition for the vintage. You can have these pistons and pins measured and assessed by the automotive machine shop. I would install hard steel exhaust valve seats to prevent valve seat recession with unleaded fuel. Stainless or hard steel exhaust valves are recommended, too.
The shop will want to deck the heads, remove just enough material to square up. Even if the cylinders are still true without a ridge at the top can't tell from the dark photoshave the block power honed by the machine shop without increasing piston-to-wall clearance beyond tolerance.
If the block requires boring, this will dictate new oversized pistons and rings. Hot tanking the block and new cam bearings are in order here, regardless of the bore size. The crankshaft will at minimum require light polishing of the journals if still round and undamaged. If worn, you can likely get by with the optimal 0. You must center the spacer plate carefully as I demonstrate in the book.
Make sure the pump cavity is undamaged. Like your idea of a master rebuild kit, it should include all of this. It pays to balance all reciprocating mass parts and weight-match these parts as well. Install a new crankshaft pilot bearing.
You have the Delco distributor, a real plus, the Prestolite was terrible. The carburetor is a 2GC Rochester. Tuning and clean-up here is straightforward. The fuel pump needs replacing, especially with the apparent drag and over-tension that caused the cam lobe wear. Use of modern oil and proper break-in should eliminate risk of premature wear like this.
I'd be happy to make oil recommendations for break-in and afterward. We can discuss that later. This is a start We're covered! Finally back at it. All the engine parts are dropped off at the machine shop, so i started cleaning up the pistons. Glad you're at it JohnF! The pistons look okay in pictures, have the machine shop measure for pin wear and skirt sizeLog in or Sign up.
Registration trouble? Please use the "Contact Us" link at the bottom right corner of the page and your issue will be resolved. Feb 27, Joined: Apr 21, Messages: Chevallier87Feb 27, Joined: Apr 4, Messages: 4, Joined: Sep 23, Messages: 11, Joined: Jul 30, Messages: 7, Joined: Aug 18, Messages: 6, Oil filters are overrated, I just cap the threads. Only joking! I've always found the number on the old filter before getting the new one. Harder to do if the numbers are missing.
FockerFeb 27, Joined: Mar 4, Messages: 4, The question is what I was going to ask - I know the filters are different in size and fit between the s and s I have around here WarlochFeb 27, Joined: Nov 27, Messages: 2, Been a while since I had this particular beast.
GMC ci big block V6. Used the same type or close to of canister oil filter as the F-head, with one oil line into the top and the other out from the bottom. Could be reached from the outside over the fender of the pickup. Joined: Sep 22, Messages: 8, One of the 's I had took a different filter than the rest; different threads.
PatrickFeb 27, On Sale. Garage Sale. Tell us what vehicle you drive so we can help you find exactly what you're looking for. Help is just a click away! Products to Compare max of 3 X. You've Selected:. Clear All. Select Your Vehicle. See More Filters. Sort by: Relevance Selected.
ALL THE PARTS YOUR CAR WILL EVER NEED
Show: 30 Results. Ignition, Charging and Starting. Electrical, Lighting and Wiring. Driveline and Axles. Air and Fuel Delivery. Gauges and Instrumentation. Part Ships Free. Quick View. Part K Part ACC. Hays Throwout Bearing, 1.It ran when i got it but very, very rough. I changed the spark plugs, and did an oil change to cover my bases.
The gauge in the dash was reading 40psi, to make sure i was getting this pressure i plumbed up a new oil gauge and it read 40psi as well. I pulled a few of the lifters and primed the pump manually with a drill through the distributor hole.
Oil runs into the lifter valley through the proper channels On other engines i have worked on oil comes though the lifters and shoots up the push rods into the rocker arm assembly. This engine has push rods with holes in them so i assumed this was the case. I have an old Motors manual so i flipped through until i found an oil schematic of this Buick v6 engine.
This is where my confusion started. The oil flow chart in the Motors manual shows oil going to the hydraulic valve lifters but not up the push rods. I do not have any kind of tube that supplies oil to the rocker arm assembly aka anything under the valve covers.
I pulled the rear main and a journal, i measured the ID of the bearings and the OD of the corresponding crank. Both were well within tolerance according to the motors manual not even questionable. So i am at a loss. I have a couple theories:. I tried warming the engine to get the oil hot and viscous enough to do this but still nothing.
The clog may be restricting flow and the oil is taking the path of least resistance out the bearings? Maybe its the wrong head? This option is my biggest concern, everything looks normal to me but is something missing?
Im not sure If you need any pictures or any other information i would be glad to provide them. I would really appreciate your input! First-off, let's be sure this is a V6 and not a later 3.
If necessary, post some photos. We can quickly determine the engine design. So, does this engine have "paired rods" at each crankshaft rod throw? The paired rods are characteristic of both the odd-fire and the early, odd-fire V6s. Even-fire engines start in and have a crankshaft rod throw for each connecting rod.